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Pasteis de Belem
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Written by RuinMyTrip Editorial from published research and official sources, not from a personal trip. It is not a traveler review and is never counted in the community rating. How we research.
What it is
The pastry shop in Belem that has made the original pastel de nata to the Jeronimos monastery recipe since 1837, with a takeaway counter and a warren of tiled dining rooms behind it.
Why travelers eat here
Because every other custard tart in the world is a copy of this one, and because eating them warm rather than cold is the entire point and is only reliably possible here.
What is genuinely good
The tarts themselves, the price, the enormous tiled back rooms, and the fact that a 190-year-old recipe is still being made on the premises rather than shipped in.
Downsides
Crowds. A queue that is longer than it needs to be because people join it by default. Belem is a trip in itself. Table service can be brisk to the point of curt.
Best for
Everyone, honestly, and particularly anyone combining it with the Jeronimos monastery two minutes away.
Consider eating elsewhere if
You have no interest in pastry and no plans in Belem. Otherwise there is no argument for skipping it.
Practical advice
Ignore the takeaway queue and walk inside to the back rooms, which are much larger than they look and usually faster. Order them warm, add cinnamon and icing sugar from the shakers on the table, and eat them immediately.
Prices and reservations
1.60 euros for a single pastel, 9.60 euros for a packet of six. No reservations; walk in and sit down.
Getting there
Tram 15E from Praca da Figueira to Belem, about twenty-five minutes, or the train from Cais do Sodre to Belem station.
Where it sits
Rua de Belem, directly across from the Jeronimos monastery and a few minutes from the Belem tower and the Coach Museum.
How long to allow
Twenty minutes standing, forty-five if you sit.
The RuinMyTrip verdict
The best 1.60 euros in Lisbon. Walk past the queue, sit in the back, and eat them warm.
Sources
Every figure above was checked against these before publication. If one has since changed, tell us and we will correct it.
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A single pastel de Belem is 1.60 euros. source
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A packet of six is 9.60 euros. source
From the RuinMyTrip team
Written by RuinMyTrip Editorial from published research and official sources, not from a personal trip. It is not a traveler review and is never counted in the community rating. How we research.
Pasteis de Belem sells its pastel de nata at 1.60 euros each and 9.60 euros for a packet of six. There is no reservation and no way to skip the queue except to sit down. This is the original. The recipe came from the Jeronimos monastery next door in 1837, it has not left the family since, and the shop still makes them behind a door only a handful of people are allowed through. Everywhere else in Portugal sells a…
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